 You have started to discuss with the owner: anything goes, it has nice air, it has completed talks books and all invoices stating work.
1 age/dirt ratio and very visible defects [/ 4]
The first glance should enable you to quickly calculate the ratio of the machine age/dirt. A very old machine has more excuses to be dull and a bit dusty as a model last cbr sold with 1500 kms at the counter. Remove the saddle. If it hides a real nest to dirt and the rest of the machine shines as a new, it is likely that the owner has briquée it especially for sale, to the will-quickly... It is perhaps not as careful that he would like you to believe. For the rest, a careful General glance should you note a tank covered with bumps, eroded Flashers and a collector who touches the ground.  Otherwise, buy you a cane and a dog.
2 General static review [/ 4]
Well, the belle is clean and everything is there: lighthouses, clignos, plastic, decrepit, step of traces of shock gross. Proceed to the static review: moto to the judgment. To Miss nothing, some method is required: you will the machine from top to bottom and front to back. In two words, here's what you get: leaks and shocks .
Part cycle
First "contact" with the part cycle: the handlebars. Check the twisting, rust and enjoy in for tinkering the commodos. If remain you in the fingers, it is bad sign. Arrange so that the front wheel is more ground (Central or otherwise side kickstand with a sidekick to help raise the front): the handlebars must turn smoothly. If it's caught, direction bearings are to tighten or replace. The amplitude must be the same to the left and to the right: measure the distance from the tank at the end of the handle with the fingers (provided that the tank is not full of bumps). Check that no cable or collars is completely stretched. Get in to shake the fork: there must not be set. Column, frame and fork tee: inspect welds, paint flakes. The large blocks of welding pas of origin should earn a small explanation. Column abutments are good indicators of falls: these are the first to enter. The fork must be straight, clean and smooth and if possible without rust Pikes. Any trace of visible shock on Tees, tubes or bags should drive you away immediately. Not very visible twisting, please step back and observe the reflections on the tubes. Spy seals must be waterproof, otherwise they are good to change. Check the status of surface on the tube: it must be dry and smooth (no trace of gravel). Then pump: the movement must be natural, without accoups or clicks. For the back is to loan the same thing: check the axis of the swingarm and combined: pump. If it slams into relaxation, an axis had to take the game. Check the status of the cartridge if necessary. For adjustable handset, make sure that the seller don't you forget provide adequate tool...
Motorization
Review, always from the top down, and from the front to the back, try to identify traces of mounts-dismounts-disassembly too frequent or little careful: impressions of screws marked, screws missing or different models, pulp joint that goes everywhere, absence of joints. The handful of clutch must not be twisted: check the guard, the game and the master cylinder for hydraulic control. Look for leak of oil in the cylinder head, look at the visible parts of the candles: States of contacts, antiparasite. In the case of an engine cools by air, the State of the vanes is important. It's better when there is no shortage and that they are not twisted. For engines air/oil or fluid, inspect the radiator, make sure that the ventilos (if there is) rotate freely without rubbing, then the State of the cooling hoses. The seal must be perfect. If the bike is cold, open the cap on the radiator or the vase of expansion and look at the liquid: it must be clean and clear, without junk food to stay. If the breech seal is dead, the mixture of oil engine and coolant is a kind of mayonnaise. When you verify the oil level, it will jump you to the eyes if that is the case. Also look for leaks in the seal of embase, and inspect the right/left housings. Take a look at the CardBus for CardBus ramp: fuel leaks are quite visible in General. Also check that there is an air filter... Finally check the selector, always twisting and rubbing.
escape
It is better that the collector is rusty or percé. As the silencer: this case, step of traces of shocks or holes.
Transmission
If this is a universal, check by pumping is not suspicious sounds and look for trace of shock and leaks. If it is a string, check the State of the sprocket, chain and the Crown. A gable or a Crown worn have fine and sharp teeth. A string correctly tense and in good condition has virtually no game when you pinch a link on the Crown and that you pull the back.
Braking
Verify that the commands are not bent or twisted, that they do not pedal. Check the game and electrical contacts. Look for any trace of leak in the master cylinder, olive fittings. If the handle (pedal) slips loosely, there is perhaps more fluid brake, or leaks, or a piston died, or air in the circuit... The brake fluid should be clear and clean. Inspect the hoses for friction, wear of the sheath, swellings, and fittings in the Stirrups. If there is not wafers or they are worn until the rope, ask... To check the disk wear, made in the tower by shaking it between the thumb and the index: all significant bump, deep scratch will be felt immediately.
Finish?[/ 4] Then, if this please, it will be time to make a few engine manoeuvres off, then a test. But this will be the topic of the next article.
(Automated translation with microsoft BING)
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